Last day Carlisle to Bowness on Solway

I struggled today because something we ate yesterday had upset my
stomach. Girlfriend thought it might have been the putrid ham sanwich
from yesterday.

Thankfully the walk was very flat which made walking easy. The scenery
was the most different to any other day. It followed the coastline
across the salt marshes. Most of the path was straight so we could see
landmarks for an hour before we reached them. In one village there was
a self serve cafe with honesty box, with lots of organic treats.

At Bowness there was a very nice finish point. It was a little hut on
the shore with information and a poem. It was so exciting that I
forgot to get a photo. We spotted some Haafnet fishermen in the tide
race. They carry long poles with nets and stand chest deep in the
water. We saw them preparing and they wore nothing more technical than
heavey waterproofs and wellys. Brave men indead.

We went posh for the night and stayed in a b&b in Port Carlisle, the
room was large and comfortable. We dined at the village pub. This was
a strange mix of pub, village shop, and front room for the landlords.
I had a delicious suet pudding, with lamb and mint.

I must do a congratulations to the people who walked the trail in 4
days. We met them at the finish point and they looked exhausted. We
kept on bumping in to them all the way home. I even had the pleasure
of a shared wee in Bristol with one chap (I'm not quite sure what I
have suggested there)

Sandsike to Calisle

We had porridge for breakfast, and I have had enough of it. It tasted
fine but the texture made me feel very hurley. As a result I was
starving by mid day.

The walk was very nice today, the path dropped down to the the river
and followed the flood plane into Carlise. Somehow carlise managed to
feel very intimidating on the way in. We only just managed to get into
Tescos before it closed. Girlfriend did amazing supermarket dash an
bought loads of food in 2 minutes. We sat in the square and had
coffees. The bag was much heavier with the extra food, so I had built
up a good apetite for dinner.

The campsite we stayed at was charming. A woman camping made us a cup
of tea when we arrived. The owners made us feel very welcome. It was
so windy I slept very badly until I made tissue ear plugs.

Greenhead to Sandsike

We walked to Gilsmoor and had coffee and scones at The House of Meg.
This was a very nice cafe and tea rooms. We met two Aussies from
Queensland. The man had an amazing beard which was praise worthy. When
I grow up I hope to have a beard just like his. It turned out that the
beard was essential to his profession, for 5 weeks a year he was a
Father Christmas.

We stocked up with food at the village shop as this was the only shop
on directly the route. It was a simple shop which was a bit of shame
because they should have enough passing trade to do really well. The
only fresh food were apples and onions so we had some of each.

The walking was very nice mostly through upland sheep pastures in the
morning. There were several fields of long haired cattle. We dismissed
an unofficiAl diversion and was rewarded with a beautiful dappled
woodland. At Bank the path defended in to green fields and crops.

We dicovered a small patch of sorrol which we picked to go with
dinner. I have had wood sorrel before which looks a little like clover
but with heart shaped leaves. The other type has larger longer leaves
which are spearheaded in shape. The taste is very interesting, vinegar
with lemon. Great in a salad but also nice nibbled as we walked.

We stayed at Sandsike, which is a country house with a parkland view.
The owners have a camping barn and also allow camping on the front
lawn. The lawn was beautifully mown and rolled and the view from the
tent splendid.

The owners had a Labrador with only three legs but a full litter of
pups. One cheaky pup chewed through the guy rope in one bite, but it
was far to cute to tell off.

This is a picture of the tent and country estate house behind.

Bubble wrap pot cozies

Quick word on the bubble wrap, becuase it is so good. We made these in
haste just before we left and did not have a chance to try them. I
used insulating bubblewrap from Homebase. This is made from bubblewrap
sandwiched between two sheets of metal foil. The theory is that you
start cooking and get the food and water boiling. Then you pop the pot
in the cozy and let it sit there. The cozy keeps the heat in and
continues to cook the food. With rice and pasta it is almost possible
to cook it completly. We found that it needed a couple of minutes back
on te heat to finish.

The results were really good. We were able to cook 2 pot meals such as
rice and curry or pasta and sauce without one part being cold when
served. It also reduced the amount of gas we used so was also a weight
saver. Another benifit was the the cozy insulated the pot whilst
eating. Thus kept the food hot whilst not burning my hands or lap.

We also made a wind break to protect the stove from the wind. In the
past I have used pots and pans and other items as a wind break which
was not very efficient. I was concerned that the plastic would melt
and sink, however after a weeks use it still seems unharmed.

The only downside was that the roll cost £17 from Homebase. Wickes do
a cheaper product but it is only single sided with metal. Several
backpacking online shops sell smaller bits but at inflated places.
Fortunatly I have other uses planned for some of the rest of the roll.
It would make an ace spaceman outfit.

Day 5

When we awoke in the campsite i realised why we could not find the
campsite. We had pitched in the overflow field with long wet grass

We had breakfast in the farm house cafe and chatted to the owner, she
was complaining about town people coming and living in the area and
not socialising. She also pointed out a shortcut back on to the route
rather than walking back to Once Brewed.

The days walking was very nice. For much of it we followed along the
ridge from yesterday. At the end of the ridge was a quarry nature
reserve with tea shop. They also had an amazing stock of blister
plasters, sun cream and pain killers. Luckily we bumped in to some
people who told us that the campsite was closed but there was camping
at the hostel in Greenhead. The first place we stopped at had b&b and
bunk barn. The emphasis being on barn. It looked flea infested, mouldy
and dank. When we asked about tent pitches he was rather grumpy, so we
left and stayed in the hostel garden in town. It was very clean, with
showers capable of flaying skin.

We had to hide in the pub from the midgies, and met some other
walkers. The was a young guy on a charity walk down the country taking
in The West Highland Way, The Pennine Way and the Ofas Dyke.

There was another couple who had walked most of the Pennine Way and
did not have a good word about it. It was a shame to talk to them
becuase the other chap was really enjoying it.

Day 3 and 4 Continued

Somehow the iphone let me down and copped off some of the email. Here is the rest of it. 

Yesterday (Friday) we walked past Howsteads castle and settlement. We hopped over the fence for free (sorry English heritage) and wandered around. It was amazing to see the foundations of a settlement from so long ago.

We stumbled in to the pub called Twice Brewed in a village called Once brewed. We both had massive meals and chatted to two Open uni history students. They had been to most if the sites and were very knowledge on all things Roman. The two pints had addled my brain and it was a challenge to erect the tent in the dark. Finding the water point took ages as I walked arond the permeter of 4 fields before finding it.

We are camping in the ex-yha hostel tonight (Saturday) and are hiding in the pub from midgies. We met two groups of pennine way walkers one couple who were nearly finished and were complainign about the bogs and weather. I can only add that the weather has been great for us and the ground bone dry. The chap at the b&b and camping barn was very grumpy so we walked on. The barn looked like it might harbour bed bugs, but we could have camped in a tent there if we wanted.

Our packs feel lighter today which can only mean I have lost some stuff somewhere, or we have run out if food.

There are so many passing walkers that the sheep are very tame. We almost have to step over them. They like the depressions in the path and will not be bothered by mere walkers. Here is one of the cheaky chaps.

Laundery day

Last night we realised something must be done about the socks. This
was the site that awoke us. If only I could describe the smell,
something like Stilton + dead sheep + dish and chips. Disgusting yet
made my mouth water.

My beautiful hat

Because the weather was so hot and my neck and ear was burning I
fashioned a head scarf from a towel. I an delighted that I can share
this creative moment with the world. More creative wonders coming up
soon.

I am Very pleased with the lop-eared rabbit effect I have created. I
goes hand in hand with the shame I felt.

Day three and four

The last couple of days have been really nice. I have sun burn on one
half of my body. Because it is September I did not bring any sun cream
which was a big mistake.

Yesterday we encountered some proper parts of the wall which were very
impressive. I thought that we had been conned on the first day. Today
and yesterday have more than made up for the lack on the first day.

The wallforts and turrets are very interesting. All the flour plans
are the same standard design but the secenery they overlook is
stunning. At one point the wall runs alon a cliff ridge. There us a
milecastle wilhich has a gate that leads over the cliff. I can imagine
some roman planner in an office stating that all castles must have a
gate for passage through.

Gross hairy leg sun burn

It stings and I want to chew my leg off. Sorry for the pic, I think it
is just about work safe.

Day two, Harlow hill to Chollerford

Day one of our walk is actually day two of the route. We did not fancy a strole through Newcastles industrial sector, senic as it is reputed to be.

The wall was non existant for most of the day. The only hit we say was about 10 meters lon but could have been built 20 years ago. We are hopin for more wall tomorrow or we will complain to the management.

The walk was quite nice, following the ditches and the new main road. As the road follows the straight roman road it is ideal for time trials on motorbikes. Although there wall little wall remaining,much of the ditches were visable.

Tonight we are staying in the campsite in Chollerford. It is behind the garage/tea rooms and is sloping with terraced bits. The chaps from yesterday are here as well unsurprisingly.

Day one, getting there

We arranged to meet up in newcastle station, and alk was going to plan until we got on the trains. Girlfriend arrived 1.5 hours late which gave me plenty of time to check out the contemporary art gallery in Newcastle.

We then hopped on the bus (via the metro) to Heddon on the wall and walked to North farm. The guide tells you to ask in for camping there but there is none. The farmers wife (?) was very nice and offered hostel and breakfast for £25. We declined this and walked on to Harlow Hill where we stayed in a lovely small campsite. The shower was spotless and brand new and the owner friendly.

Girlfriend and I assumed our domestic roles and i put the tent up while she cooked a lovely dinner. The pot cozies i had made for the trip were great. Once the water was boiling i added the pasta and put the pan on the cozy. There was no need for any extra cooking. We finally sat down for dinner at 10 becuase of the extra walk, and train delays.

Here is a picture of one of the art installations, called 14 billion. It is a paracord kind of spiders web in a large empty room. Each knot was modeled and then tired in the correct location. All very OCD.